Celeriac remoulade is a speciality salad of France. Sold in supermarkets and “traiteurs” (French delis) in a gloopy, mayo-y mass, it’s so much nicer to make your own and lighten it up.

Celeriac is a knobbly root vegetable, ranging in size from an orange to a whopper of an iceberg lettuce. It’s very popular here in France, yet fairly under-used elsewhere. With a delicious, delicately nutty celery flavour, it deserves more widespread recognition.

To prepare celeriac, slice off the thick skin and rooty bits, and place it in some cool water with lemon juice added to prevent it from discolouring.

I use it in chunks in soups and stews, mash it with potatoes if I’m feeling funky, and add it to rosti for a different take. My fave is to cut it into big chunks and to roast it with potatoes, squash, carrots and parsnips for an easy vegetarian Sunday roast, served with lots of veggie gravy.

It makes a fabulous smooth purée on its own, which all the top chefs are smearing across the plate with gay abandon.